DISCOVER RWANDA
Travel to Rwanda differently
Rwanda has become a leading destination in recent years, and has definitely made a name for itself in international tourism, especially in the luxury segment. While Rwanda undeniably knows how to do it when it comes to high-end safari trips, Laba Africa Expeditions also wanted to try something different, a little bit more off the beaten track and away from five-star lodges. Here is our experience of “traveling in Rwanda differently”.
When to go to Rwanda?
Generally speaking, the best time of the year to visit Rwanda is from June to September, as this is the dry season. These are therefore the ideal months for gorillas trekking or volcanoes and mountains hiking. However, it is also high season; So, expect higher fares and more tourists. The periods from March to May and November are calmer and generally characterized by light rains. These are therefore favorable months for traveling to the south of the country and visiting Nyungwe National Park for chimpanzees trekking.
How to get to Rwanda?
From Uganda: buses run daily from Kampala to Kigali and vice versa. The trip takes about 10 hours. Some companies offer departures at the end of the day, for a night trip. Prefer a reputable company, such as Jaguar or Trinity. Tickets can be purchased at their terminal (Namirembe Road). The price of a bus ticket usually costs between 40,000 UGX and 70,000 UGX (10.5 EUR to 18 EUR). For more comfort and to save time, some may prefer to fly from Entebbe to Kigali, with the local companies Uganda Airlines or Rwandair. For 45 minutes of flight, generally count in the 200 USD.
From Kenya: If you want to reach Rwanda from Kenya, you can take a bus from Nairobi to Kampala first, then from Kampala to Kigali. You will enter Uganda at the Busia border point.
From Tanzania: From Tanzania, buses connect Kigali from Mwanza, Arusha, or Dar Es Salaam.
From abroad: Kigali International Airport is served by many airlines. From Europe, flights can be booked daily via companies such as Qatar, Rwandair, Turkish Airlines, Ethiopian Airlines or KLM. Count generally in the 500 euros to 1,000 euros depending on the season.
Which visa to go to Rwanda?
Citizens of the African Union, the Commonwealth and La Francophonie obtain a free visa on arrival for a period of 30 days. East African Community citizens obtain a free pass for a period of 6 months on arrival. Travelers wishing to visit Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya can benefit from an East Africa Tourist Visa which offers 90-day validity for these three countries (with multiple entries) at the price of 100 USD (compared to 50 USD individually).
Kigali
Like the majority of travelers to Rwanda, we began our journey in the capital, Kigali. The city, relatively small, is however worth visiting and spending some days. Very different from its East African counterparts, Kigali surprises with its calm, its organization, its modernity and its cleanliness. It is also one of the safest cities in the world, making it an ideal destination for solo travelers, especially women. We were particularly seduced by the many museums, art galleries, and welcoming cafes. Some neighborhoods are not very popular with tourists but yet very pleasant to walk around and also very photogenic. Kigali is also home to many markets and craft markets. We are sure you’re going to love the Rwandan capital, which is for sure very pleasant for travelers because of its organization and cleanliness.
Our top 10 things to do in Kigali
1. Genocide Memorial to learn more about the country’s painful past and pay tribute to the victims of the genocide
2. Rwanda Art Gallery: located in the former presidential residence, this museum offers a selection of paintings and sculptures mainly made by Rwandan artists. A guide will accompany you during the visit, to help you to interpret the works, often related to the genocide.
3. Lose yourself in the neighborhoods, since Kigali is not a very big city and it is pleasant and safe to walk there. We particularly recommend Kimihurura or Kiyovu.
4. Kigali is full of talents and many different arts can be found there. During your stay, you can try your hand at traditional dancing, painting, music, etc. At Laba Africa Expeditions, we tested (and largely approved!) a photo session in the city, with a professional who works for the New York Times among others. An unforgettable cultural and artistic moment!
5. Take a break in a café to taste the succulent Rwandan coffee, a tea, or even a milkshake. We recommend KG Craft coffee, for a charming decor, good cuisine and above all a pottery shop where you will find magnificent artisanal cups and tableware.
6. Visit one of the city’s many art galleries, such as the famous Inema Art Gallery.
7. Shopping – Rwandan handicrafts are absolutely stunning, and there is something for everyone! The Caplaki Craft Village craft market offers an impressive choice, in an orderly and pleasant setting.
8. Try local food. If Kigali has become very international in terms of restaurants, we advise you not to leave the city without tasting the local specialties. Go for a buffet to taste several things, such as the Afrika Bite restaurant which offers a buffet for lunch. You can also savor the local street food: skewers (usually goat or beef) and grilled potatoes.
9. Take a trip to the Kimironko market, where just about everything is sold!
10. Take a tour of the city in a motorcycle taxi, this mode of transport widely used by locals. The rides are pleasant, since the traffic rules are respected and the traffic is moderate. It also allows you to observe different neighborhoods, see how the locals live, etc. without getting too tired
Ruhondo
For our next step, we’re heading for the northwest part of the country and more particularly Lake Ruhondo. Since it is located next to Lake Bulera, the two lakes are often referred to as the “twin lakes” of Rwanda. We stayed at the Ruhondo Beach Resort, which we highly recommend! The hotel has direct access to the lake and a huge green/relaxation area. It offers some rooms and also tents, for a total immersion in the nature. Very quiet, the beautiful place is perfect for relaxation. Activities like swimming, canoeing, boat tripping or bird watching can also easily be organised. Whatever your choice, you will certainly be as charmed as we are by Lake Ruhondo, thanks to the beauty of the landscapes, with the Virunga volcanoes in the background.
Usually not crowded and not on the itinerary of most tourists, Ruhondo gave us the impression of being alone in the world on a little piece of paradise, surrounded by crystal clear water, green hills and volcanoes. Quite magic! The calm of the place and the comfort of the tents offered us a great moment of relaxation and some precious rest. Special mention for the resort’s excellent breakfast, served by the lake with a breathtaking view and gentle sunshine. Once night falls (around 6 p.m.), you can warm up by the fire – with a beer and grilled fish for us, just to end the day as perfectly as it started.
How to get to Ruhondo?
To get to our destination, it took us about 3 hours by road from Kigali – which we did by car but can be done by bus – and 10 minutes by boat (taken from Ruhondo pier).
Musanze & Mount Bisoke
Musanze, or Ruhengeri as it used to be, is the capital of the district of the same name. Located a few kilometers from the entrance of Volcanoes National Park, Musanze is a strategic destination for those who want to go to the park, for a gorilla trekking or hiking. The town is relatively small and quiet, but welcoming and charming. Located at 1,850 meters above sea level, Musanze is pretty cool – especially if like us you come from Kampala – and the evenings/nights are cold. But don’t panic, the nice atmosphere of Musanze will warm you up.
After a good night’s sleep, we get up at dawn (5:15 a.m.) to get ready for the purpose of our visit: hiking Bisoke (or Visoke) volcano. Culminating at 3,711 meters above sea level, the summit of the volcano has a crater lake with a diameter of about 400 meters. The last eruption of the volcano was in 1957. A hike to the top can be done in a few hours, so this is a day trip. Here is how to book a bisoke hiking permits
The adventure starts with a meeting between 6:30 a.m. and 7:00 a.m. at the Volcanoes National Park headquarters, located about thirty minutes from Musanze (easily accessible by car or even by motorbike). After registration formalities to obtain our hiking permit (which costs 70 USD), we receive a succulent welcome coffee and a briefing from a guide.
Today, only one other traveler will join us. We leave the headquarters at 8 am, for the start of the hike, at the foot of the volcano. The trip to get there is done with your own vehicle, and the guide comes with you. Armed with our walking stick, we start the hike around 8:30 am! The starting point is around 2,700 meters above sea level. So, we have a 1,000-meter climb ahead of us.
The walk begins with a climb of a good thirty minutes out of the forest – a perfect warm-up. At the entrance to the forest, we meet some armed soldiers who will join us for the rest of the trek, to ensure our safety; it is not impossible to come across a gorilla, a buffalo or even a forest elephant. The ascent continues, a little steeper and on fairly muddy terrain – even if it is dry season. Yet affordable, the hike is a great challenge! The vegetation is lush and changing as we climb. We felt in another world, alone, and more than ever connected to nature. A real moment of happiness, despite the sometimes intense effort. 2h30 later, we reach the top! There is a lot of fog, so unfortunately, we will not see the crater lake.
But that does not detract from the amazing experience and the beauty of the landscapes. After a short break of 10 minutes (it’s really not warm here), we begin the descent, which will take us about 1h30. The rain started, making the path even muddier than it already was. The return is also a challenge, but the views of the opposite mountains and the valley are definitely worth it! 4 hours later, we are back in our car, proud of ourselves and captivated by the beauty of the landscapes and the mystical side of the volcano.
How to get to Musanze?
We got there from Ruhongo by taxi. The journey, which takes about 40 minutes, costs around 15 USD. From Kigali, buses leave every 30 minutes from the bus station. We recommend the Ritco company, which offers comfortable and generally direct buses. The duration is about 2h30, at a cost of around 2 USD.
How many hours does the hike take?
On average, it takes around 6 hours to complete the circuit. While some do it all in 3 hours, others can take up to 9 hours. This of course depends on the physical condition and the pace of the group, but also on the weather conditions. The path being very earthy and steep, the rains can really complicate your ascent… For this reason, we recommend that you climb Mount Bisoke during dry season (from June to the end of August and from December to mid-March).
What does the $70 permit cost include?
If the cost may seem high at first glance, you should not forget that it is a protected area, and that the profits generated by the permits are therefore largely allocated to the protection and maintenance of the area. Also, 10% of the profits are directly donated to the local communities, who therefore benefit directly from the tourist flow. Also, to ensure your safety (against wild animals in particular), you will hike with about 5 soldiers, in addition to your guide who will accompany you throughout the walk. Finally, you can hire a porter to support you in case of difficulty (for an additional cost of 10 USD).
What to carry and pack for the hike?
Of course, good hiking shoes (ideally high). Comfortable hiking clothes (long pants, preferably long-sleeved t-shirt) and also a warm/waterproof jacket for the summit or in case of rain. A walking stick will be lent to you (free of charge). Take enough water (1.5 to 2 liters) and some snacks (banana, nuts, energy bars, etc.). Don’t forget your camera or smartphone, and maybe sunglasses and sunscreen.
What to do in Musanze besides Bisoke
Not a hiking fan? Don’t worry, Musanze offers many other activities! From here, you can trek the mountain gorillas, visit caves, take a bike ride to observe the beauty of the volcanic chain, go to Ruhondo, Burera or Karago lakes, etc.
Kibuye
After the sportive hike in Musanze, we head for Kibuye where a few days of relaxation await us. Located on the edge of Lake Kivu, which is shared between the Democratic Republic of Congo and Rwanda, the small town of Kibuye is relatively unfrequented by tourists. It is more of a popular destination for locals, who escape from Kigali for weekend trips. Even if quite unpopular, Kibuye is simply magical! It feels so good there, the climate is ideal, the landscapes breathtaking, the views of Lake Kivu impressive and the activities numerous.
Since tourism is not very developed here, the offer in terms of hotels and restaurants is not very extensive. We stayed at Rwiza Village, which we recommend 200%! Mid-range, this hotel is made up of small, simple but very comfortable cottages with a breathtaking view of the garden and Lake Kivu. You will also have direct and private access to the lake, with a small pier from which you can watch the fishermen, swim, read, or just relax. The place will offer you a unique haven of peace, ideal for resting after some adventures.
In Kibuye, you can find activities for all tastes! Hike or bike the famous Congo Trail, boat tour, kayaking, bird watching, fishing, etc. For our part, we opted for a boat trip of about 3 hours. Our guide first took us to Napoleon Island (taken its name of its shape, remanding Napoleon’s hat), for a short hike to the top – much lighter than Bisoke, don’t panic. From there, a breathtaking 360° view of Kibuye, Lake Kivue and the surrounding islands.
The landscape is truly magnificent; it is somewhat reminding us of Lake Bunyonyi in Uganda. Next, we head to Monkey Island, where we saw vervet monkeys. On the way back, we observed that the lake water had slightly changed color, from blue to emerald green. Back on dry land, we had lunch break with a breathtaking view of the lake and a good grilled fish. The afternoon was devoted to relaxation at our hotel, a short swim and a magnificent sunset.
How to get to Kibuye
From Musanze, we took a bus from Musanze bus station to Gysenyi (town bordering Congo). The trip takes about 2 hours, costing less than 2 USD. In Gysenyi, we took a minibus for Kibuye (2.5 USD). Multiple stops and 3 hours later, we arrived in this beautiful little town. The journey was well worth it!
For our return to Kigali, we took a bus from the Karongi station (Karongi bus park) to Kigali. The trip takes about 4 hours, for 2.8 USD. From Kibuye, you can also go to Rusizi by bus, close to Nyungwe National Park. Of course, Kibuye can also be reached directly from Kigali (bus station), with bus companies such as Ritco or Virunga.
